Building the Sub-Floor

Utilizing the corrugation hack to reduce time and cost

Difficulty:

Labor:

- hours

Cost:

$0

We recommend completing the prerequisites before continuing your journey through the steps:

Fan and windows cuts are done. This is recommend that way the metal residue can easily be cleaned out and doesn't scratch or get stuck in the sub-floor.
Sound dampening is installed
Plan for support: Decide on materials and thickness of each sub-floor level – you'll want to make sure you can still stand comfortably given the extra height the sub-floor will add.
- Layer 1 consists of (1) support and (2) insulation
  - Insulation -- (XPS foam) on the top of corrugations
  - Metal cross beams of equal height to the XPS foam that will be the support of where the top wood layers meet and sit on top of
- Layer 2: Wood underlayment (Plywood or Baltic birch?)
- Layer 3: Finish
Prior to purchasing anything, estimate how much material you will need:
Measure width and length of the van floor, ignoring the wheel wells – consider your layout and how far you want the floor to come to the front, back, and side door.
Using these measurements, figure out what size options your local hardware store has of your wood
Do the math to figure out how many pieces you'll need

We were able to skip the step of filling the corrugations by placing the insulation layer perpendicular across the corrugations. This allowed some additional airflow under the floor, as well saving time measuring and filling the uneven parts of the van floor.

PREPPING THE SPACE:

Empty and clean floor with alcohol or soap and water
Check for rust and remove
Apply Rust oleum to any scratches you find

Although the wood underlayment is the second layer, you will actually want to start on this first since the placement of these dictate where the metal cross-beams have to go.

LAYER 2 (PHASE 1):

Take measurements of the first section (easiest to start from the front or the back, anywhere but the middle). This should include any corners, lips, doors, etc that you will have to cut out.
This is the hardest part. Why can't they just make van floors square.
Fit the first piece in place and measure the second sections
Rinse and repeat until you have all of your wood underlayment pieces fit to your van floor
Add a layer of mold and mildew primer to your wood cutouts and let dry as you work through the following stages

LAYER 1 (Top of Corrugations): The Support

Now that you know where your wood layers will sit, you can figure out where the metal cross-beam will have to lay
Measure the lengths of the areas where two wood cutouts meet and come together
Cut the metal beams to that length
Check that it fits properly before gluing anything. Adjust as needed.
Assess for overhang. Depending on the corrugations and beam placement, there may be some areas where the beam is overhanging and not being support like {this photo}.
Create additional support to these areas by adding spacers underneath like {this photo}
Add metal beams to any areas you think need the extra support {this photo}
Once you're happy and confident with the metal beams, glue with [insert glue type for metal to metal) and let dry (dry time=[x hrs])

LAYER 1 (Top of corrugations): The Insulation

Measure the length between the metal cross beams and cut the XPS foam to fit in-between using a ___ knife
Check that it fits properly and make any adjustments necessary
Note: You can fill any loose/extra space with gaps and cracks, but try to make the XPS foam fit as snug as possible
Once you're happy and confident with the insulation cuts, glue with [insert glue type for foam to metal) and let dry (dry time=[x hrs])
Add a rubber layer over the metal pieces

LAYER 2 (Phase 2):

Now that layer one is in, your wood have had AMPLE time to dry
Add the wood pieces over your insulation layer
Check for any squeaks! Adjust and tweak as necessary.

LAYER 3:

Wait to do the finish until other stages have been completed that way you don't risk damaging it
Once you're ready.....INSERT STEPS ONCE WE DO IT

Get assistance from another person as the wooden slats are long and awkward to hold and attach to the ceiling crossbeams by yourself.
You'll be holding your arms above your head for a long time as you're working on the ceiling, take breaks so you don't tire out
Be sure to wear safety eyewear since gravity is not your friend in this install guide (lots of particles falling down into your eyes)